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News
Do Outdoor Grades Make Sense in Climbing Gyms?
6+ hour, 52+ min ago (578+ words) Gripped Climbing Magazine An observant climber might notice that 5.1, 5.2 and 5.3 are never present in the gym and may comment on that, but perhaps not before asking about the “V” preceding a number in the bouldering grade chart. The instructor usually…...
Significant Improvements in a Parks Victoria Draft Signals New Direction for Climbing Access at Dyurrite/Mount Arapiles
6+ day, 20+ hour ago (547+ words) In Australia a significant shift in climbing access at Dyurrite (Mount Arapiles) is underway, with Parks Victoria releasing a draft amendment to its management plan that would restore access to the overwhelming majority of climbs affected by the previous management…...
Nat Bailey Climbs Crack of Destiny 5.14b Trad in Squamish
1+ week, 1+ day ago (441+ words) Last month, Nat Bailey made the fourth ascent of Crack of Destiny 5.14b trad in Squamish, Canada. The Squamish local has ticked many of the hardest trad lines in the area, including Cobra Crack 5.14b and Gunslinger 5.14a. Bailey’s ascent of Crack of…...
Janja Garnbret's Latest 5.14d: A Look at Her Hardest Sends
1+ week, 1+ day ago (345+ words) Janja Garnbret has made quick work of Pornographie 5.14d at Céüse, France, a line first climbed by Alex Megos in 2020 between Bibliographie and L’Étrange Ivress. In June, Janja Garnbret made history by becoming the second woman to send 5.15c after Brooke Raboutou…...
13-Year-Old Leo Cea Climbs a Frankenjura Test-Piece - Gripped Magazine
1+ week, 3+ day ago (410+ words) 13-Year-Old Leo Cea Climbs a Frankenjura Test-Piece Gripped Climbing Magazine Chilean climber Leo Cea has sent Shangri-La 5.14c in Germany’s legendary Frankenjura, adding another test-piece line to a resume that included seven 5.14ds, his first two coming when he was just 11 years…...
Ethan Salvo Climbing the Legendary Lucid Dreaming V15
2+ week, 2+ day ago (293+ words) “Everything fell into place one night under the full moon,” said Salvo after his ascent on Instagram. “A moment I’ve wanted to experience for many years now, although I didn’t imagine it could be this good, nor this rich and…...
Elite Climbers Compete at The North Face Climb Festival
2+ week, 4+ day ago (300+ words) Gripped Climbing Magazine The North Face Climb Festival is taking place this week at the Royal Docks in East London, bringing together some of the world’s top climbers, including members of The North Face athlete team. More than 35,000 free tickets…...
How Climbing Gym Setters Sneakily Push You to Climb Harder
2+ week, 6+ day ago (547+ words) Gripped Climbing Magazine Assigning a grade or level to a boulder problem (or any climb, for that matter) is complicated. A grade must account for many factors, including strength, power, and technique, each of which encompasses a wide range of…...
Jakob Schubert Climbing His Third V17
3+ week, 3+ day ago (614+ words) Gripped Climbing Magazine Jakob Schubert sent Shaolin V17 (9A) in Red Rock, Nevada in February this year. It was his third of the grade, and came just a couple of months after he climbed his second V17, Mount Doom, in Maltalal, Austria (in…...
How Strong Do You Need to Climb to Be a Setter?
4+ week, 1+ hour ago (417+ words) At least, that’s what we have come to understand after interviewing two head setters at Canadian gyms, Max Summerlee and Karlo King, on the subject. Summerlee is the Director of Routesetting at two gyms in Ontario – The Guelph Grotto in…...